How Background Color Affects Photographs

You may be aware that light (whether ambient, flash, or a continuous light source) reflecting off a colored ceiling or wall will reflect that color into your photograph. Likewise, color reflections from a background will adversely cause your subject to take on a tint that isn’t actually present.

In the best case scenario, you may only have to explain why your photos of a subject have erroneous colors. In the worst cases, those erroneous color tints can lead to erroneous conclusions. For example, a tire photographed on a blue background will likely take on a blue color cast. This could be mistakenly interpreted as evidence that the tire or tire piece exhibited signs of high heat, which includes the “bluing” of certain surfaces in the tire.

Setting a custom white balance (WB) with a calibrated white or gray target won’t remove the unwanted background color casts because the target is usually placed between the light source(s) and the subject. In that position, it would yield a proper WB for the light falling on the target, but it wouldn’t receive the tinted reflections of light from the background. As custom WB is designed to do, it would properly render the actual reflected color cast on the subject—even if is unwanted.

But if the WB target was in position to receive background reflected light, the custom WB function would try to neutralize that color cast, which would adversely affect every other color. That would be the worst of both worlds.

Let’s see how different color backgrounds work in practice.

For these examples, I photographed a manual tire spreader on different solid color backgrounds in my Studio Lab. [Click on photo below to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Tire spreader on background paper lit by two Godox TT685IIN flashes triggered by another Godox TT685IIN on a Nikon Z 8 with a ZEISS Milvus 50 mm f/2 macro lens. Note: the on-camera flash was used only as a trigger for the two remote flashes, but did not add any light to the subject itself.

The tire spreader was made from uniformly-colored cast metal. It had no paint or other color applied to it. Before making any of the photographs below, I set a custom WB using a Calibrite gray WB target.

Made with Nikon Z 8 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens & two Godox TT685IIN flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Here is the resulting photograph with the blue background paper. It’s easy to see the blue cast in the vertical surfaces, but even the horizontal surfaces have picked up an unwanted and incorrect blue tint. [Click on photo above to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens & two Godox TT685IIN flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Replacing the blue background paper with red changed the improper color cast from blue to red. Again, the tint was most evident in the vertical surfaces, but was also noticeably visible on the more textured horizontal surfaces—especially when compared with those same surfaces in the blue background photo. [Click on photo above to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens & two Godox TT685IIN flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Replacing the red background paper with white removed the color cast, but now the vertical surfaces were significantly brighter than the horizontal surfaces. This was not what the spreader looked like if you held it in your hands. [Click on photo above to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens & two Godox TT685IIN flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Changing to a black background paper retained the neutrality of the white paper, but now the shadows were darker than they appear to the naked eye. In fact, black cards or black reflectors are often specifically used to absorb light and create deeper shadows. [Click on photo above to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens & two Godox TT685IIN flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

A neutral gray background paper added no color cast, nor did it overemphasize highlights or shadows. In conjunction with a custom white balance, a neutral gray background provides the most natural and true colors, textures, and shapes of your subject. [Click on photo above to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

After testing and measuring numerous gray background papers, I found Superior Seamless #4 Neutral Gray Seamless Paper to be the most neutral gray background paper available. I’ve been using it ever since. Here’s a link to that paper: https://superspec.com/product/neutral-gray-seamless-paper/

Takeaways:

-1- Non-neutral background colors negatively affect the accurate rendition of your subject in a photograph.

-2- Colored backgrounds impart their colors onto your subject.

-3- Setting a custom white balance (WB) with a calibrated white or gray target won’t remove the color cast, but will accurately capture the actual reflected color. This is as it should be since capturing accurate actual color is the purpose of setting a custom WB.

-4- Although black and white are neutral tones, black overemphasizes shadows while white overemphasizes highlights.

-5- A neutral gray background gives the most natural and true colors, textures, and shapes of your subject. It’s all I ever use for any forensic photography.

Forensic Photography Symposium Short Courses Next Week!

There is still time to register for one or more of the forensic photography short courses being offered next week. Each will be from 8:00 am to 12:00 noon EST. They are:

Monday, January 20: Using Flash in Forensic Photography by Tom Vadnais.

Tuesday, January 21: Close-Up and Macro Evidence Photography by Jerry Narowski.

Wednesday, January 22: Precision Lighting for Evidence Photography by Gale Spring.

Thursday, January 23: Photoshop Enhancement Techniques by George Reis.

Each four-hour course is only US$75, and each qualifies for continuing education credits after a short test and assignments are completed. Best of all, you’ll immediately be able to apply what you learn in each class in your daily work.

Here is a link for the descriptions and registrations for the four short courses—one per day next Monday through Thursday: https://www.ai2-3d.com/fps-courses

The Symposium will be held each of those days after the short courses. For the schedule and to register for the Symposium itself, please follow this link: https://www.ai2-3d.com/fps2025-schedule

You’ll need to register separately for each short course and for the Symposium itself. Since they’re all virtual, you don’t even have to travel!

Don’t miss them!

More on Short Courses and FPS 2025

 

As I mentioned in a previous post, for the first time, FPS will offer a different short course each morning before the symposium presentations begin. Each short course is a separate event; you don’t even need to register for the Symposium itself (although I recommend that you do!). If you want to attend any short courses, you’ll need to register for each of them individually. You’ll still need to register separately for the Symposium.

Here is the link with the descriptions and registration links for the short courses: https://www.ai2-3d.com/fps-courses. This is the schedule and registration link for the Symposium itself: https://www.ai2-3d.com/fps2025-schedule.

Each short course and the Symposium itself are eligible for continuing education and ACTAR credits. To get those credits for each short course, you will need to complete a short quiz and submit a couple of simple assignments to demonstrate completion. These will be due within a couple of weeks after the courses. Videos of the entire short courses will be available on the FPS website to review during the quiz and assignments as needed.

I have been honored to be asked to instruct the first short course on January 20, 2025, from  8:00a to 12:00 noon EST. My topic will be Using Flash in Forensic Photography.

This workshop is designed to show how critical and straightforward it can be to incorporate flash (including off-camera and multiple flashes) in your daily photographic work. You’ll see—and experience—that flash isn’t incomprehensible or even difficult. You’re just adding light where you need it!

Hope to see you then. Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. My contact info is here: https://vadnaisengineering.com/home/

New Using Flash Short Course at FPS 2025!!

Eugene Liscio, the founder and mastermind of the virtual International Forensic Photography Symposium (FPS), has asked me to teach one of the inaugural Short Courses at FPS 2025 from 8:00 am to 12:00 noon EST on January 20, 2025. It’s only US$75!!

I’ve been honored to have presented at all three previous FPS events. I have also attended every session of every symposium—even those about areas I will never have to deal with. I always learn something new, and have benefitted from seeing how others address issues they’ve encountered, regardless of their forensic photography genre.

My short course will be Using Flash in Forensic Photography. As I’ve discovered during my 43 years of consulting and forensic photography—and especially since 2018 when I started teaching my three-day automotive forensic photography class for SAE International—that many people fear using flash. That fear is not unfounded. You can’t see how or where your flash will add light to your subject until after the image has been made. But actually, as this short course will demonstrate, flash—even with multiple flashes—is straightforward, and even easy!

Nikon D850 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens and Nikon R1C1 macro flashes made with Nikon Z 7II with Nikon Z 24-70 mm f/2.8 lens and two Profoto B1x studio flashes. f/14, 1/200 sec, ISO 200.
Nikon D850 with ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens and Nikon R1C1 macro flashes. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

One or more flashes simply add light where it’s needed. We’ll see when and how to use ambient light, fill flash (ambient with localized flash), and full flash (where the image would otherwise just be solid black). We’ll also discuss using flash on sunny days outdoors to highlight details and fill in shadows.

We’ll learn when and how to use TTL (Through The Lens) versus Manual flash. There will be demonstrations of bringing out textures, when and how to use different types of flashes, and how and when to use reflectors or other modifiers.

Since capturing accurate colors can be critical in forensic images, we’ll see how to set the proper white balance when using flash. We’ll also see the effects that the color of the background—along with the effects of the color of any surface a flash is bounced off of—can have.

For more information, including a short introductory video, and to register, please use this link: https://www.ai2-3d.com/fps-courses.

To get credit for the course, you’ll have to take a short quiz (all answers will be covered during the workshop) and complete quick, easy hands-on assignments to show you can use flashes as described. All assignments will be specifically demonstrated during the workshop, so this will be easy, too. These assignments should be as much fun as they are useful. My goal is not just to get you to incorporate flash in your daily shooting, but to actually enjoy using it.

If you have any questions about the short course, please contact me through one of the methods on this page of this website: https://vadnaisengineering.com/home/.

SAE Class on Automotive Forensic Photography, 09/17-19/24, Anaheim, CA

What’s the one thing you do on EVERY scene, vehicle, or vehicle component inspection? Photography, of course. If your photographs are accurate and of good quality, they will be important pieces of evidence in depositions or trials. After all, you can’t cut out a giant section of the highway with all the tire marks and gouges to bring into court. Nor can you bring a couple of wrecked tractor trailers up the elevator to the courtroom. But if your photos are good, you can have them entered into evidence in place of the physical evidence, and make them even more useful to the trier of facts (judge or jury) than the actual physical evidence itself would have been.

Tire marks without polarizer: (Click on image to enlarge, then click on arrow to return to this post):

Tire marks without polarizer. (Nikon 24-70 mm lens on Nikon D3s.)

Tire marks with polarizer: (Click on image to enlarge, then click on arrow to return to this post):

Tire marks with polarizer. (Nikon 24-70 mm lens on Nikon D3s.)

By good, I mean your photographs need to be consistently accurate, well focused, have good depth of field, and be well exposed and well lit with good shadow detail. And we don’t get to choose or change the lighting and weather conditions we face during our inspections. We have to adapt and still create quality, useful images.

Through SAE International, I’ll be teaching another three-day class called Photography for Accident Reconstruction, Product Liability, and Testing (SAE C1729). This class qualifies for SAE’s Accident Reconstruction Certification and for ACTAR credits.

We’ll get hands-on practice with the three most important tools (besides your camera and lens): a tripod, a polarizing filter, and one or more flashes. Flash is typically the tool most folks are afraid of, but you’ll learn the difference between full and fill flash, and how straight forward flash really is. We’ll even practice with two flashes, which let you capture details you can’t otherwise get.

You’ll receive a ton of information, and be able to apply what you’ve learned and practiced during your very next inspection and onward for the rest of your career.

If you’d like (need?) to make better automotive forensic photographs, please join me September 17 through 19, 2024, at the Anaheim Hills Business Center in Anaheim, CO. For more information or to register, please click here: https://www.sae.org/learn/content/c1729/.

SAE C1729 Automotive Forensic Photography Class – Anaheim, CA – 09/17-19/24

SAE International has scheduled my next Photography for Accident Reconstruction, Product Liability, and Testing class (SAE C1729) for September 17-19, 2024 at Anaheim Hills Business Center, 5140 La Palma Avenue, Anaheim, California 92807.

Here’s a link with more details and for registration: https://www.sae.org/learn/content/c1729/.

We’ll include such topics as: how to consistently expose image; what gear really works; using flash, polarizers, and a tripod—the three most important tools; the importance of proper perspective; and night photography.

We’ll see many before-and after images demonstrating what to do and what not to do. We’ll also spend time practicing with tripods, polarizers, and single and multiple flashes, so you’ll be comfortable applying them right away.

Here are some examples of what we’ll discuss:

•Using manual exposure and creating accurate night photos. (Click on image to enlarge, then click on arrow to return to this post):

Manual exposure mode with ISO set at 100. Made with Nikon Z 5 with Nikkor Z 24-70 mm f/4 lens at 49 mm in raw mode. f/4, 1/3 sec, ISO 100.

• Using a tripod, using follow focus, and setting proper exposure to capture moving vehicles during inspections or testing (Click on image to enlarge, then click on arrow to return to this post):

Photo made by panning with vehicle moving at 55 mph during tire testing. (Made with Nikon 300 mm f/2.8 lens on Nikon D800E at f/6.3, 1/640 sec, ISO 400.)

• Using a tripod (for composition, leveling, and stability), a polarizer (to control glare), and a fill flash (to bring out details in the shadows) like in these before and after images (Click on image to enlarge, then click on arrow to return to this post):

Front end damage with no flash used. (ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens on Nikon D850. Exposure: f/11, 1/160 sec, ISO 100.)
Front end damage with fill flash used. (ZEISS Milvus 50 mm macro lens on Nikon D850 with Nikon SB-910 flash. Exposure: f/11, 1/60 sec, ISO 100.)

Please call or e-mail me if you have any questions or would like more details.

I hope to see you there!

How Aperture Controls Sun Stars—and Exposure and DOF

(Note: This post incorporates several important fundamentals along with the discussion of controlling sun stars. As always, it’s all summarized in the Takeaways at the end.)

A previous post illustrated how the number of aperture blades affected the number of rays produced in a sun star. As discussed, sun stars are created from bright spots of light in an image when the lens aperture is stopped down. While prominent sun stars might be desirable for landscape or creative photographs, they are usually unwanted in forensic photos. In fact, there have been instances where photographs with distinctive sun stars have been limited or disallowed. Here’s how to control—or even eliminate—their prominence.

There were three small, distinct bright light sources in the following night scene. A series of images was made at every whole aperture from f/16 through f/2. (As a reminder, there are six stops up from f/16: f/11, f/8, f/5.6, f/4, f/2.8, f/2.) Only four of the seven total images—each two stops apart—will be shown below. The other three intermittent images fit in the progression as you’d expect from what you’ll see below.

This first image was made with the aperture stopped down to f/16. As expected, the sun star rays were most distinct at this aperture. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Sun Stars at f/16 made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens at f/16, 2.5 sec, ISO 64.

Opening up two stops to f/8 noticeably reduced the sun star effect. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Sun Stars at f/8 made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens at f/8, 0.6 sec, ISO 64.

Opening up two more stops to f/4 almost completely eliminated the sun star effect. This should be acceptable for any foreseeable use. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Sun Stars at f/4 made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens at f/4, 1/6 sec, ISO 64.

Finally, opening up yet two more stops to f/2 eliminated any trace of sun star rays. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Sun Stars at f/2 made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens at f/2, 1/25 sec, ISO 64.

As you can see, the wider open the aperture (which means the lower the f-number), the less pronounced are the sun stars. But you can’t just adjust your aperture to either intensify or to eliminate sun stars. Whether it is daytime or nighttime photography, changing your aperture affects your image in two main ways: exposure and depth of field (DOF). 

Recall that the smaller the f-number, the larger the lens opening. Just like 1/2 of a pie is twice as large as a 1/4 of a pie, a lens aperture of f/2 is twice the diameter of f/4. Here’s how changing aperture changes exposure and DOF:

Exposure: Opening the lens aperture lets in more light, which brightens the exposure. To keep the overall exposure the same, you must compensate by the same number of stops by using a faster shutter speed, lowering your ISO, or using a combination of both. Since all the above images were already at my Nikon Z 8’s lowest ISO of 64, my only option was to select a correspondingly faster shutter speed every time I opened up the aperture.

This means that for this series of four images, every time I opened up the lens aperture by two stops, I had to use a shutter speed that was two stops faster. As you can see from the captions under the images, at a constant ISO 64, the f/16 image required a 2.5 second exposure. Opening the aperture two stops to f/8 required a shutter speed of 0.6 seconds, which is two stops faster. Likewise, f/4 required 1/6 second and f/2 needed 1/25 second to keep the same overall exposure. Each were two stop increments of aperture and shutter speed.

As a side note, since the camera remained on a tripod throughout all the photographs, the shutter speed had no effect on the sharpness of the images. But changing shutter speeds will definitely affect the appearance of any moving elements in the image frame.

Depth of Field (DOF): DOF is how much of the scene—from near to far—is in acceptable focus for a given focus point. DOF is controlled by aperture. The more open the aperture, the less DOF. Conversely, stopping down the lens aperture increases DOF.

A deeper DOF is more critical in daytime photographs where almost everything is visible and, in most forensic photography, should be acceptably sharp. At night, a more shallow DOF can be perfectly acceptable, especially if the background and foreground are mostly black, as in the photos above.

As you can see on the enlargements by clicking on the photos above, f/4 would likely produce acceptable DOF. Depending on your case, even f/2 (or an aperture between f/2 and f/4) might give you all the DOF you need. As the photographer, you need to (and you get to!) decide on the tradeoff between DOF and sun star prominence.

Takeaways:

-1- You can control the prominence of sun stars from small, bright light sources (day or night)  by your choice of aperture. The more stopped down your aperture, the longer and more prominent the rays. Opening up the aperture will shrink the rays until they essentially disappear at the most open apertures.

-2- Opening up or stopping down your aperture will also affect the DOF in your image. You must decide how much DOF you will need. That amount would likely be different for daylight versus night photos—even of the exact same scene.

-3- Just like with any other photography, opening up or stopping down the aperture will require that you correspondingly adjust your shutter speed, ISO, or a combination of both, to maintain the same overall exposure. Make sure your shutter speed is sufficient for your image, especially if there are moving objects in your frame. Also, setting your ISO as low as possible minimizes noise and maximizes dynamic range, both of which are even more important in night photography.

SAE C1729 Automotive Forensic Photography Class – May 2024 in Orlando!

It’s been a few years since my SAE automotive forensic photography class has been offered in the Southeast—or even in the East, for that matter! Now it will be offered May 14-16, 2024 in Orlando, FL.

Anyone working in accident reconstruction, product liability cases, vehicle testing, or other forensic, evaluation, or testing investigations knows the importance of creating consistent, quality, and useful photographs. You’ll be glad to know that you can (probably) do that with the camera you already have! Just think of how much money you’ve already saved! You just need to understand and use that camera and just a few essentials such as a tripod, flash(es), and a polarizer.

In the classroom, we will learn the fundamentals of making good, consistent photographs with lots and lots of good and bad examples. We will do hands-on sessions—both indoors and out—with tripods, polarizers, night scenes, and the big one—using one or more flashes. While it will be most useful to bring your own camera gear—including flash(es) and tripod—I will bring various tripods, tripod heads, flashes, polarizers, and neutral density (ND) filters for you to evaluate during the hands-on sessions. Those will help you determine if your gear is what will serve you best, or if you need to upgrade a piece or two.

Here’s a link to the class description and registration: https://www.sae.org/learn/content/c1729/

Please contact me if you have any questions or would like more information about what to expect from the class.

Hope to see you in Orlando!

Sun Stars with Even or Odd Number Aperture Blades

Many lenses have an odd number of aperture blades, but several have an even number. For most photography, there is little to no noticeable effect.

There is, however, a noticeable difference if you have a “sun star” in your image. A “sun star” is the name given to noticeable rays—day or night—emanating from the sun or from an artificial light source.  A sun star is created when the lens is stopped down. The more the lens is stopped down, the larger the rays of the sun star.

An even number of aperture blades results in the same number of sun star rays. As the image below shows, a lens with ten blades (the TTArtisan 50 mm f/2 lens), stopped down to f/16, resulted in ten pronounced rays from a street light at night. [Click on image to enlarge, then click back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with TTArtisan 50 mm lens at f/16, 3.0 sec, ISO 64.

An odd number of blades results in twice the number of rays. Using the same camera as above, but switching to a lens with nine aperture blades (the Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens), also stopped down to f/16, resulted in eighteen sun star rays. [Click on image to enlarge, then click back arrow to return to this post.]

Made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikkor Z 50 mm f/1.2 S lens at f/16, 2.5 sec, ISO 64.

Takeaways:

-1- Day or night, “sun stars” are often created from small, bright light sources in a photograph when lenses are stopped down.

-2- An even number of lens aperture blades creates the same number of sun star rays. An odd number of blades results in double the number of rays.

-3- An even number of blades creates more pronounced rays than does an odd number of blades.

-4- Sun stars are usually undesirable in forensic photographs. A future post will describe how to control the prominence of those rays. But if you must stop down for depth of field, an odd number of lens aperture blades will create more rays, but they will be less obtrusive.

Focus Stacking Close-up Images

The closer you get to your subject, the less depth of field (DOF) you have. As you can imagine, when you photograph close-up or macro or micro subjects, you get progressively even less DOF.

In close-up—or closer—shots, even stopping down to your smallest aperture won’t give you enough DOF to make much of a difference. Besides, if you fully stop down your aperture, any small gain in DOF will likely be negated by diffraction, which softens the entire image.

Focus stacking blends multiple images with increasingly further focus points into a single image. This allows you to create an image with the specific DOF you want for your subject . You might not need everything in the foreground or background sharp, but you control what is or isn’t in focus by how many images (called slices) you use.

For this example, I wanted the entire broken lug stud in focus, but wasn’t concerned about the hub surrounding it. As shown below, even stopping down to f/16 didn’t give sufficient DOF to show the entire fracture surface. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Single image at f/16 made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikon Z 50 mm MC macro lens. One Profoto B1x studio strobe on either side with Godox T365N II flash mid-left. f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Notice how the focus quickly falls off toward the farther end of the broken lug stud fracture surface. Both the foreground and background of the hub are out of focus, but that’s okay since they’re not the subject of the photograph.

To get the entire lug stud to be in focus, I made nine separate photographs of the fracture surface with each one focused slightly further from the camera. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Each individual image from closest focus upper left to farthest focus lower right, each made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikon Z 50 mm MC macro lens. One Profoto B1x studio strobe on either side with Godox T365N II flash mid-left. Each component image f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

In Photoshop, I brought all of the raw frames (slices) into a single image as separate layers. I aligned the layers, then stacked them using Auto-Blend Layers. As shown below, using layer masks, this function blocked the out of focus areas on each slice. Only the sharpest parts of each layer, or slice, remained. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Screenshot of Photoshop layers with their focus stacking masks.

I cropped the image back to its original size and saved it with all its layers as a PSB Photoshop Big) file. With ten 45 megapixel layers, the file was over 2 GB, which is larger than can be saved as a PSD (Photoshop Document) file. I then flattened the image, resized it, output sharpened it, and saved it as JPEG. Note: I still always keep the PSB file with the layers and layer masks to be able to show what I did, if asked.

Below is the result of the focus stack blending of the nine layers shown above. [Click on image to enlarge, then click on back arrow to return to this post.]

Focus stacked in Photoshop from nine images, each made with Nikon Z 8 with Nikon Z 50 mm MC macro lens. One Profoto B1x studio strobe on either side with Godox T365N II flash mid-left. Each component image f/16, 1/200 sec, ISO 64.

Note how the entire face of the fracture surface is now in focus. Note: I used to also use Zerene Stacker and Helicon Focus for focus stacking—and both are excellent—but now I almost exclusively use Photoshop.

Takeaways:

-1- The closer your camera is to your subject, the less depth of field (DOF) you will have.

-2- Most forensic images require the entire subject to be in focus to show all its details.

-3- Even stopping your lens down to its minimum aperture won’t give you sufficient DOF, plus you risk losing detail from diffraction.

-4- Focus stacking requires a series of photographs (slices) be made with the focus increasingly distant from the camera. These slices are blended into a single image where only the sharpest elements of each slice will be kept by the software.

-5- Only combining images through focus stacking allows you to get sufficient DOF for many close-up, macro, and micro images.

-6- The closer the subject, the more slices (individual images) you need. For some micro images, more than 1,000 slices need to be blended through focus stacking.

-7- Focus stacking can also be used for large subjects including landscapes, buildings, accident scenes, and vehicles. Those larger subjects require fewer slices—often only two or three.